One of the absolute best wines for food
I'll give you a hint...it's not Rioja!
Today I want to play a little guessing game with you. I want you to try to figure out the wine I’m thinking about.
It’s made in Spain (of course!) …
It’s perfect for pairing with food…
It’s a white wine…
It’s not Albariño…
Do you have a guess?
The answer is the wines from the region of Rueda, in the center of the country, which are almost always made out of the indigenous Spanish grape called Verdejo.
Did I stump you? If so, I’m happy to be able to teach you a bit about this amazing wine!
Most people, when they think of wines from Spain, will think of the very famous region of Rioja, or the wines made of the Garnacha grape, or of sparkling Cava. Most will not think of still white wines, and if they do, they probably only are imagining Albariño.
But people…you are missing one of the best wines from Spain!
The region of Rueda, which is just northwest of Madrid, is on the Duero River. It’s dry, and goes from very hot in the summer to very cold in the winter. The conditions are difficult, but it means the vines are hardy and their roots dig deep in the soil, made up of a blend of clay, sand, and silt.
But enough about the region…let’s talk about the wine! It’s usually made from a very amazing grape called Verdejo, which is indigenous to Spain. It’s a very old grape from a very old region, with evidence of having been grown since at least the 11th century! But for the longest time it wasn’t very popular, and Verdejo almost died out entirely, until Marqués de Riscal—the famous winemakers of Rioja—invested in the area and worked to make it a world-class wine region.
The thing that I love about Verdejo is that is has this beautiful, intoxicating aroma—tropical fruit, flowers, apple, and lime—but it also has a stunning acidity. Many wines that have that sort of aroma are low in acid, and the wines that are high in acid don’t have that exotic aroma. So in many ways it’s the best of two worlds!
Our Senior Director of Beverage and wine, an amazing guy named Daniel Grajewski who joined my company last year, sees Verdejo as a hidden trick of a sommelier. “It’s outside of the normal Riesling, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc—and offers something that none of those better-known grapes can give you.” He loves that blend of aroma and acidity, especially for pairing with food.
Daniel tells me that one of his favorite pairings with the wines of Rueda is Gambas al ajillo (remember…they’re the ultimate tapa!). The rich, buttery shrimp needs a rich crisp acidity to cut through, and the beautiful aromas of the brandy and the chilies love an aromatic parallel, PLUS the acidity matches that last splash of lemon. I have to agree with Daniel—it’s perfect!
Besides gambas al ajillo, one of the best things to eat with is salad! You might never think of what wine goes best with a salad, but now you have the perfect option…the aromas liven up the greens, fruit, and vegetables of the salad, while the acidity can stand up to a vinaigrette. Try it sometime!
So of course I can tell you that you can try the wines of Rueda at any of my Spanish restaurants—we have an amazing selection at Mercado Little Spain and The Bazaar in New York, The Bazaar in DC , and all of our Jaleos.
But if you can’t come to one of the restaurants, there are two makers you should keep your eyes out for. One is Marqués de Riscal, which I mentioned before…they revitalized the region in the 1980s, and pushed for wider recognition of the Verdejo grape, so I think it’s a good taste of history to be drinking these wines.
And for the ultimate taste of Verdejo, look for the wines of Belondrade y Lurton. Didier Belondrade started the winery in the 1990s, and since then it’s really become the gold standard of Rueda. If someone else were buying the bottle, I would probably have to order their Belondrade y Lurton 'Les Parcelles,' one of the very best examples of Verdejo ever made … and if you’re buying, you can’t go wrong with Belondrade Quinta Apolonia!
Oh, and if you happen to be in New York next week and want to try these amazing wines with pairings from The Bazaar, check out this dinner we’re having!
So…have you ever tried the wines of Rueda? What did you think? If you haven’t…what are you waiting for?
Can you recommend a store in DC specializing in Spanish groceries? I was a Spanish Table customers for years when I lived in Sausalito and in San Francisco.
Verdejo is my favorite white! I learned so much about Sherry at DC Jaleo more than 20 years ago that I went to Spain, repeatedly. It has such delicious cuisine and wine that it’s my favorite place to visit. Thank you and Jaleo for teaching me.