"The face of the industry is changing." Meet Mercado's Wine Guru, Maddy Maldonado
The Beverage Director at Mercado Little Spain shares her story and her favorite wines to drink right now
Hello my friends!
You know that I love Spanish food, but maybe you also know that I love the wines of Spain? (Also the music and Flamenco of my homeland, but we can talk about that another time…!)
I am very lucky because Spanish wines are truly the best in the world…they’ve always been a way for me to express myself and to open a window into the country I came from Spanish wines are a way for me to explain to people from America—without having to use any words—what the country I come from looks like, tastes like, and smells like. These are wines that come from a place and they taste like that place—the warm sunshine, the sea air, Mediterranean breezes, the beautiful and rugged landscapes…it is all in our wines.
One of my most memorable experiences as a young boy was a school trip we did to the Penedès region, where Spain’s best Cavas and sparkling wines come from as well as beautiful whites and reds. On this trip, we visited a winery, a bodega of Cava making. (I know what you’re thinking, a school trip to a winery!) I was so impacted by my visit to the vineyard, by seeing centuries of expertise and experience going into the wine. I think that trip changed my life in a way.
Now, all of this rambling here about wine is my way to introduce you to Madeline Maldonado, who is the Beverage Director for all of the restaurants in Mercado Little Spain in New York. Maddy is someone you may have heard of before; she was featured in the New York Times article, “Black Wine Professionals Demand to Be Seen.” She was also awarded Beverage Director of the Year in 2020 by Esquire Magazine.
Maddy started out at the Spanish wine shop Tinto Fino. From there, she strayed from Spain to the wines of Italy with first with Chef Jonathan Waxman at Jams, then at da Toscano, and finally as Beverage Director for Eataly…before we took her back to the world of Spain!
I’m sharing this conversation that Longer Tables had with Maddy so you can get to know her a little more. Be sure to say hello to her when you visit Mercado Little Spain!
Longer Tables: What originally turned you on to a career in wine?
Maddy Maldonado: It started at home. My mom is from the Dominican Republic, and she is a great cook and a super entertainer. Seeing my mom cook and host all the family holidays and parties, that kind of got me into the kitchen. I wanted to become a chef, but my mom was like, “No way! I did not come to this country to have you slaving in a hot kitchen all day! Please go get your degree and work a 9 to 5 job and retire at the end!” That was the future she wanted for us. But, my first job was at a catering business in New Jersey. The first party I handled for them was for a couple with an amazing thousand bottle wine collection and a kitchen built for cooking with all the bells and whistles. After that first event, we hit it off and they requested that I do all their parties. I was there every week and after the events, I would stay and we would taste wines. They were allowing me to taste these wines that were outrageous. I caught the bug, and I still have not been able to shake it. I started reading and buying wines. I had a thirst for it (pun intended!). I got certified and got into this wine world. I turned 45 on June 19th, and my entire adult career has been about wine.
LT: Wine can traditionally be very intimidating. You make it accessible. How do you do that?
MM: Wine is daunting, but the one thing I like to do is make it fun. It has to do with your palate and what you know. I can say that it tastes like persimmon or kiwi, but if you’ve never tasted those fruits, how would you know? So the other day I tasted a Garnacha rose from Catalonia with my staff. I was trying to pull tasting notes out of them.
Finally, I was like: “This is Jolly Rancher Watermelon!” And their shoulders dropped. That’s what it was and they got it. You may not know what heirloom fruit, but a Jolly Rancher Watermelon? You know what that tastes like.
With my guests, I like to tell stories and connect with people. That’s what I do best. And I feel like I am home here. This is my style of hospitality, and that’s what we embrace here with José. It’s a business, sure, and it's not easy to run a restaurant, but at the end of the day it's about bringing people together and sharing stories to create a sense of home.
LT: You’ve been back working with Spanish wines since you joined the team in January. How does it feel to be working in Spain again after focusing so much on Italian wines?
MM: It feels great. I have always wanted to be back working with Spanish wines. I love the wines, and I love the representation of wines that you get from across the country. This is a great area because you have classic producers, but you also have really cool natural producers and younger generations who are saying: I grew up in Rioja or Priorat but I am going to do it differently than my grandparents did. That's very exciting to me to see these younger winemakers and what they are doing.
LT: What are you seeing in terms of trends since COVID?
MM: Rosé is a big one! Everyone is drinking pink. I am definitely seeing more people drinking cocktails. The pandemic taught people that they can make cocktails at home, but also that it’s not so easy to do at home. I think people started to understand the craftsmanship that goes into a cocktail. It is the kitchen of the front of the house.
I’ve also seen people embracing a low- to no-ABV lifestyle. A lot of people in our industry are sober and now have products like Seedlip, and that is something that’s been exciting to see. We are serving a fermented tea called United Ferments and another fermented tea from the Basque Country called Ama made by chefs from Mugaritz and a winemaker. It's like a pet nat but made with tea and it’s 2.5% ABV.
LT: What are you excited about for this summer at Little Mercado?
MM: I am doing a draft latte system for our kiosk with Horchata Lattes that we developed with La Colombe. That will be at Pasteles where we sell all the pastries and ice cream. It’s so good. We are also planning a Drag Brunch that will be super fun.
LT: You’ve been doing this work a long time; have you seen the industry become a more diverse and inclusive workplace?
MM: As a Black woman in this role, coming up in the somm world there were very few people who looked like me. There was Lee Campbell, but not many others. I am starting to see a lot more diverse faces at tastings. I had a moment at this wine festival recently where I saw a table of young somms and wine enthusiasts, and they were not all white. I am excited to see more Queer and People of Color and more women too. The face of the industry is changing.
LT: Last question! Can you share three wines to drink now?
MM: Yes!
Ameztoi, Getariako Txakolina Rubentis Rose 2021
This zippy, fresh, and sea salty Rosé from the Basque Country is what I like to call a patio pounder. The high acidity and low alcohol make it thirst quenching and versatile with food. Delicious on its own but a great match with boquerones, oysters, spicy tuna rolls or a linguine with clams.
Remírez de Ganuza Rioja Reserva Blanco 2018
This is what I like to call a surprise wine because people are always shocked to hear that Rioja produces white wines and that while it sees some time in oak , it is not heavy or cloying. The body, acidity, and mouthfeel of this wine mimics more a white Burgundy than an oaky style of Chardonnay. Super versatile with everything from cheeses, roasted chicken, pork, etc. It is also perfect to sip on its own as each sip will express a new layer as it opens up.
Bodegas Aroa Le Naturel Grenache 2021
This wine sits at the top of the chillable red list. A crunchy, fruity, dry red that screams to be paired with grilled meats and vegetable, barbeque sauces, or a simple charcuterie and cheese plate.
Where does one buy the 3 wines Mady recommended
I visited Spain and found 2 wines I have enjoyed ever since, Rioja and Tempranillo! Amazing value and rich taste. I like them bold with ripe fruit. Thanks for sharing.